A suit jacket size is based on a number and a letter. The number represents your chest size
in inches and the letter (S, R, L) your overall height. So, a 40R means a 40 inch chest and regular height.
Short: 5'5" to 5'7"
Regular: 5'8" to 5'10"
The suit pants have what is called a "drop", which is the differnce between your jacket size and pant size. American suits on average have a 6-inche drop, so a 40R would have pants of size 34.
The perfect fitting suit should have a jacket shoulder that ends at or near where the top of your arm and shoulder meet. There should be no bunching of fabric at the base of the neck. The jacket back should cover your rear and the jacket arms should come down to the top knuckle of your thumb when your hands are at your side. Most, if not all, off-the-rack suits require some tailoring; and, getting it tailored for you particular body type will make all the difference in the final presentation of the suit.
To Vent Or Not To Vent
A vent refers to a horizontal cut in the bottom part of the jacket There are three different vent styles: no vents, center vent and side vents. A center vent appears at the bottom back of the jacket
while side vents appear around you the left and right sides of your waist.
Two, Three, Four Buttons
How many buttons you want your jaA vent refers to a horizontal cut in the bottom part of the jacket There are
three different vent styles: no vents, center vent and side vents. A center vent
appears at the bottom back of the jacket while side vents appear around the the
left and right sides of your waist.
Canvassed or Fused
A canvassed suit jacket is constructed of an outer fabric layer, middle canvas shell and inner lining all stitched together.
In a fused suit layers of fabric are glued together. Because of this design differences, a canvassed jacket tends to drape
better over the body and is not susceptible to bubbling from too many visits to the dry cleaner.
More often than not, the the higher number of thread count for a suit the higher the quality.
Choose Your Fabric: Wool, Polyster or Cotton
Choosing what fabric you want your suit to be can be difficult. Many argue
that the best suit is made up of wool. It has the best look and can be worn the
longest. It tends to be a bit warmer in the summer but also keeps you
warmer in the winter months. Polyster and cotton suits tend to be less
expensive than wool.
Dry Cleaning Your Suit
Try to keep your dry cleaning to a minimum to extend the life of the suit. In between the dry cleaning, for wrinkles and odors use a home steamer or get it pressed. Also,use a suit brush after each wear to keep it lint free.
Storing Your Suit
When hanging your suit make sure you use a contoured or curved hanger to maintain the shape of the jacket and keep it unbuttoned. You can even use suit bags to hang them in the closet, but make sure you buy the ones that breathe. Don't overload your pockets with stuff and unbutton your suit when you sit down.
Protect you suit from moths using cedar blocks or moth balls.